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When assembling a list of London’s best eateries, one might expect well-known high-end names. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a distant corner of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble restaurant achieving such a prominent position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its earlier character. It seats just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a powerful punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, more aromatic and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is supported by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a position of power, he would “insist to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel very proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum would be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic honour.